The true extent of the damage to the reef became apparent when we descended along the fringe reef system and observed that 70-80% of the boulder and mound corals had died. This had the most significant impact on the brain and star corals. We explored depths ranging from 30 to 80 feet and found a consistent pattern of destruction.

 

Despite STINAPA’s alerts in 2023, the map tracking the spread of the SCTLD, effects to have diver decontamination the dive equipment after each dive, reporting the spread of the disease to the Atlantic and Gulf Reef Assessment site, and avoiding infected areas, the disease quickly spread through Bonaire’s leeside (west-side) dive sites. The corals were also more vulnerable because of the 2023 and 2024 marine heat waves.

 

The Caribbean experienced unprecedented ocean warming in 2023-2024, leading to intense marine heatwaves and the largest global coral bleaching event on record. Since March 2023, particularly in the Atlantic, this warming has caused extensive coral loss. Sea surface temperatures reached new highs early in 2023, driving an extended heatwave. By July, temperatures in the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean were 1-3°C (2- 4.5°F) above average, resulting in severe coral bleaching and widespread mortality, including some colonies previously able to withstand stress. 

 

Sylvia Earle's 2009 TED talk shares her journey using her 'My Wish' to promote ocean protection and create 'Hope Spots.' She emphasizes that oceans are vital for life, giving oxygen, influencing climate, and connecting ecosystems. Her message urges action to respect oceans and ensure a livable planet for future generations. Earle warns that half of the world's coral reefs are damaged or gone, and if we don't change, most could disappear by mid-century. NOAA projects over 90% of reefs could be at risk by 2030, calling for collective action to protect these ecosystems. 

 

This dive was the first time Kathy and I experienced such a widespread mass morality of a coral reef.  So many times, we had traveled to Bonaire to rejuvenate our spirits. It was like a sacred touchstone for us. The fish and animals that made their home on the reef were as familiar as pets. In the space of three years, this reef system had collapsed. It literally looks like a war zone. I literally cried during the dive, mourning the loss.

 

For us, this was truly paradise lost. But there is hope in the work being performed by Reef Renewal of Bonaire.

Post Script: October 29th, 2025

On October 4th, while completing my final dive in Bonaire, I told Kathy that at 89°F, it was the warmest water I've ever experienced while diving. I also mentioned that “if a Tropical disturbance makes its way into the Caribbean, it would make for one hell of a storm.”

Hurricane Melissa made landfall in Jamaica on October 28, 2025, near New Hope in Westmoreland Parish, at peak intensity as an extremely powerful Category 5 hurricane. The hurricane caused catastrophic damage, particularly in the western parishes of the island, including St. Elizabeth and Westmoreland. It was described as the strongest hurricane to ever strike the island.